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Welcome to my blog

One of my serious interests is model engineering. I've built steam locomotives in 5 inch gauge, and also in gauge 1. Interest in the hobby seems to have grown quite a lot in the last few years - certainly my local model engineering society is a lot busier. Several people I've spoken to have expressed an interest in building a loco. These days, sadly, most of the college based courses are no longer running making it harder to start from scratch.

I have just started building a 3 1/2 inch gauge loco and thought I would keep a journal of my progress. I thought if I set up a blog perhaps it might help someone else to get going. I will share some notes and photographs documenting my progress. Hopefully my blog will promote discussion with like minded people.


The loco I am building is a GWR Hall (3 1/2" gauge).
Its an LBSC design: the construction looks typical of lots of locos, so the construction notes should transfer to other locos.

Truth to tell, I bought it at a club auction, as a set of frames with the wheels already machined. There were a few other components which had been made up, but, sadly, they were rusted beyond hope. The drawings are original blueprints, and pretty fragile. I think they would disintegrate if used very much. I tried photographing them - this was surprisingliy good, especially when converted to black and white and invertes. In the end, I scanned the drawings in sections, and worked from both. So there will be no notes for the loco frames or wheels.

Comments

Carol said…
Hi darling your blog is looking good! Welcome to blogland.
Tonniece said…
Welcome to the cyber world Norman. Dianne and I were just talking yesterday about you and your trains and how we'd love to see how they looked. And voila......... here you are. Welcome aboard.

Tonniece
Dianne said…
Hello Norman
I'm so glad we'll get a chance to see all the work you are doing on your trains. Welcome to the blogger world...
Dianne
We can't seem to see the other pics above, so good luck with this.. I'll be checking back...

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Wheels

What I started with was a set of frames with hornblocks fitted, and wheels turned. So I'm afraid I've no construction details for these. Except for quartering the wheels. You can do this either with a jig,or in the lathe. I've used both methods - a jig works well. Most books and drawings show jigs which are specific to one model, which is not brilliant. Since then, I have seen a general one detailed, which is a far beter idea. I've also quartered wheels in the lathe, which is what I chose to do this time. Two sets of wheels were already assembled and quartered, but, when I checked them, both were different ! The object is to set the two wheels on an axle at 90 Deg to each other -usually, the right leads on British locos. Having said that, the really critical thing about quatering is not the exact angle, but is that all the wheelsets on the loco must be set at EXACTLY the same angle. This is because the wheel relationships are locked by the coupling rods, and any diffe

Coupling Rods

The spacing of the coupling rod centres is critical to the free running of the loco. I measure each side separately and comparing it with the drawing. Any inaccuracies in making up the axle-boxes or in setting the crank-pins will show up here. I started by marking out the centres and outline on the rod blank, then drilled the centres, starting with a small centre drill, then drilling out at (say) 2BA clearance at one end, and 2BA tapping at the other. The rods tapered from 3/8 to 1/4 in. - i.e a taper of 1/16 in. on each side. So I marked out the centre line on the support bar, and another, offset by 1/16 in. I drilled and tapped a fixing for one end of the bar on the centre line, and attached the rod blank. Then I lined up the other centre on the 1/16 in offset line, clamped and drilled through 2BA tapping. Now I removed the rod blank, and opened the 2BA tapping hole on the rod blank to 2BA clearance. Also I tapped 2BA threads in the support bar and bolted the two together. I clampe

Tender Body

The original drawings showed what I think is the Hawksworth tender - I've previously made one in 5 in gauge, and thought the Collett tender would make an interesting change. It has a couple of major challenges - the top of the sides are flared, and also the rear corners of the tand are very rounded, so a tricky compound curve is created where they meet. I took the basic dimentions from the drawings, and scaled the Collet specifics from a couple of photographs. The fact that the major lines of the tender matched up with the profile of the cab gave me some useful reference points. Then there's a raised extension which fits on top. I left a tab which I curved to match the lower part of the tender, and riveted and soldered the two together. The other tricky bit was the rivets -there are several hunders of them, and they're very prominent. My solution was to make the tender tank out of thinner brass than usual -about 22 gauge. (Another reason for this was that I had a couple